The pursuit of happy days to offset the misery of demolitions. When you need to buy ten kites, Arpan, a stick-thin nine-year-old boy with the swagger of a Bollywood star, is your go-to guy. He and four other children took us on a meandering wander through a grimy area of under-construction mega apartment complexes, make-shift roads, decayed buildings, slum areas, and ramshackle warehouses. Large trucks chugged past us bathing us in a haze of dust and exhaust fumes, while Arpa